Jakarta Tales Vol 5 (contd)

WELCOME TO PARADISE... BALI!!

Let's now move to my experiences in what was voted in July (Travel America survey in 88 countries) by 100,000 people all over the world as "THE WORLD'S BEST ISLAND" - BALI!!!! Yups, you can go green in envy. And believe me, if I were you, I'd take the next flight to this beautiful island and live the experience for itself.

Where do I start? It's just fascinating. The golden beaches (although some can be dirty), the blue water, the reefs, the volcanoes, the deep sea diving, the surfing, the culture, the dances, the food, the massages, the nightlife, the temples, the hotels, the markets and most importantly, the people (especially women in bikinis ;)) - Bali has something for everyone.

We (Btw, the "WE" in this Bali chapter are the notorious gang of four - Dorien, Sebastian, Sascha and me) started our trip on a Friday evening in July (don't ask me the dates, please). I was 20 minutes late in getting back home from work and boy, let me tell you that the Germans are very particular about time! Sascha was really angry with me because he thought we might miss our flight. Later, on our way to the airport, Sebastian told me that in Germany and, for that matter, anywhere in Europe, being 5 minutes too late is considered very rude and could raise tempers. I apologised even though it wasn't me but the Jakarta traffic to blame and that we still got to the airport well in time for our flight to Denpasar, Bali (I always knew we would... after all, try India's traffic and you know where you can be in how much time anywhere in the world).

After a small pre-takeoff technical snag, our Air Asia Indonesia (the Air Deccan of Indonesia) flight took off for Denpasar, Bali. The 1.5 hr flight was hardly memorable, except for two of the airhostesses who caught Sebastian's and my attention when they bent down with their low cleavages and short skirts (btw, this mail is for adults only, so children... its bedtime now!) to ask us if we wanted to order something from the food cart. We ended up ordering them.. oops, I mean a light snack to eat!

Soon we were about to land at the International Airport at Denpasar, Bali. Let me tell you something amazing about the Denpasar airport. When you're about to land (preferably during the daytime because you can see outside then), you get the feeling that the plane is about to land into the sea. The runway is so close to the water that you can see the waves crashing into the walls of the embankment. Needless to say, it's beautiful. At night, though, when we landed, the view was not so terrific but we could still see the white surf of the waves shimmering under the lights of the plane. Those who land during the day, of course, find it incredible.

We were picked up by an Allianz SUV (see, this is the advantage of having friends from companies like Allianz) and were swiftly driven to Sunset Villas, Seminyak. Btw, before I go on, I have to tell you about Bali's roads. They are awesome! It's unbelievable how clean and smooth they are considering it's such a small island. Of course, it's an international tourism hotspot so the infrastructure has to be world-class but considering Indonesia's maintenance levels in general - barring Jakarta - Bali is exceptional.

The joyride was just beginning. When we arrived at Sunset Villas, we realized our stay was going to be luxurious. It was actually the bungalow of the CEO of Allianz Indonesia and goes without saying... it was awesome! We got to stay there for quite cheap and thoroughly enjoyed the open air shower (not together) and chill out sessions by the pool.

The first day, we went for breakfast to the Kudeta, which is bloody expensive but worth every penny! It's a spacious open-air bistro-cum-lounge-cum-bar by the seaside. And though the Seminyak beach is certainly not the most breathtaking in Bali, it still offers a great view of the deep blue sea, the airport and the reefs in the distance. Following breakfast, we looked up the Lonely Planet (a helpful but expensive and biased way to know something you can easily find out from the locals) and going by our hunch, headed off to Sanur.

Sanur, initially, turned out to be quite a disppointment because although the water was crystal blue, the beach couldn't be dirtier (according to Bali standards). Hmmm, God does need some cleaning services in paradise, doesn't he? Anyways, we made the most of it by finding a relatively cleaner spot to lie down and soak up the sun. While Dorien attended to her feminine side by getting some manicures done, we - the boys - headed out for canoeing into the sea. It was the first time I did it and it was crazy fun! The water was calm 200 metres into the sea, the 3000 metres high Gunung Agung (Mt Agung) rose majestically above the clouds in the backdrop, and the 10ft high waves in the distance provided the perfect setting.

Slowly but steadily, we got really close to the waves and then Splaaaash!!! As the waves started getting bigger and bigger, we tried turning our canoes but in vain. It was the smallest wave that got us all and we all were in the water within seconds. It was hilarious to be drenched in the middle of the sea with our canoes overturned! I also hurt my knee a little and three tired rowers returned to the beach soon. After having spent the whole day at Sanur and then at a Bonsai garden, we returned home for dinner at the Kudeta (I repeat, really expensive) and then to bed.

The next day began with us heading off to the sea temples of Tanah Lot. Before we could get to the main temple, the exterior complex had us rooted to the ground: there was a man with snakes around his body! Well, not that this is something unusual for an Indian but I haven't seen someone kissing pythons right in front of my eyes, putting them inside his shirt, then getting Dorien to take a snap with one of them around her neck and then even putting one on my neck!!! Aaaarrrgghh!! I was so scared I screamed and ran!

Phew!! I told you I've had some rocking and rocky times but snakey, ooooooohhh, didn't expect that! After our rendezvous with the reptile world, we came to the main temples of Tanah Lot. Honestly, it's not such a fascinating piece of architecture (we have much more beautiful temples in India) but the landscape there is captivating. After a short tour, we headed back to the kitsch of the temple market where you can get everything from fake Billabongs to real farmer hats. If the snakes weren't enough, we were taken aback when - after our shopping spree - we saw a fruit bat hanging from a small tree right in front of a shop!! And what's more, we even fed it with some papayas! This country is unbelievable, believe me!

From Tanah Lot, we were off to the Monkey Forest where monkeys roam about in the open and gleefully accept all that you have to offer them and even what you don't :) and then to the greens of Ubud, aplenty with terraced rice fields, beautiful wooden souvenir shops (I must admit that Indonesians are very very good with wood. You give them any piece of wood and they can do wonders while sculpting it. In fact, they often don't cut a tree but just carve beautiful engravings in the shape that it is) and the ancient mountain shrines of Gunung Kawi. Again, not so impressive (Ajanta-Ellora are much better) but worth the time and fun, especially considering we were all wearing sarongs (like a lungi but colourful and shaped like a towel) and looking ridiculous! Also, what was impressive was the fact that while Islam has the undeserved reputation of being non-tolerant all over the world, this centuries-old Hindu shrine and many more have been preserved untouched and are respected in the world's largest Muslim country. On our way back, weathered and beaten, we were rejuvenated when we saw a traditional Hindu wedding procession on the road. It was heading to the Gunung Kawi shrines and was quite a colourful experience.

What was most conspicuous for me throughout the Bali trip was the difference in the way Hinduism is observed on the island. It is completely different from what we know as Hinduism in India. The temple architecture, the names of most gods and goddesses, their idols, the form of worship, the clothes for worship are so heavily immersed in Indonesian culture one could hardly call it Hinduism. For example, you can't go into a temple in Bali if you're not wearing a sarong. In India, I've never known any particular dress code for going into a temple!

Actually, this applies for the way all religions are observed in Indonesia. Even Islam! Yes, being a Muslim, the last thing I expected in Indonesia was a culture shock from the religious perspective... haha. But I did get one! Only 15% of the 83% Muslim population practices the religion, you can never tell from the name of a person if he/she is Hindu/Muslim/Christian/Buddhist and ask a Muslim in Indonesia what Shi'ite or Sunni is, and they'll ask, "Apa" ("pardon me"). Even the names for some basic rituals are different! It truly sets me thinking, "Are they right or we? Or are we both right in our own ways? And does it actually matter so much?"

Anyways, now back to Bali. We had dinner at one of the best Indonesian restaurants in the country - Warung Made, partied the night away at Club 66 and The Paparazzi, walked home by the beach and next day, we were in Dreamland! Yes, we truly were coz that's the name of one of the most beautiful, not-so-explored beaches in Bali and is true to its name. It's towards the southern coast and is actually hidden from the road. But when you decide to head off the beaten track down into the empty spaces near Griya Alam Pecatu, you discover Dreamland. The infrastructure is basic but the beach is heavenly - golden sand, green-blue water, surfers' paradise! Seriously, it is quite a sight when you see an army of surfers riding the 10-15ft high waves crashing into the shore!

We were so thrilled because we had finally found the Bali we had been looking for! We all tried out wave boarding and it was thrilling, to say the least! I almost drowned as well when I had gone far too deep into the sea and the waves kept pushing me further away from the shore. When I tried to swim back, my waveboard got entangled around my right arm and I couldn't move it. So I couldn't float on it and couldn't swim either. I cried for help and within minutes, an American and an Indonesian guy helped me out. Rocky and rocking, ain't it... An early dinner by the magnificent sunset, fishermen's boats standing out on the horizon against the orange rays of the sun and off we were. Dreamland had turned out to be the beach of our dreams!

We were told later, of course, that Amed, Nusa Dua and Jimbaran Bay are far prettier but we didn't have the time to go there. And of course, if you really want to see arguably the best in the world, then get out of Bali and head off to Nusa Lembongan, Lombok and the Gili Islands - pure, virgin territory with idyllic beaches and marine life you only see in films, books and fairytales.

We all slept on the late night flight back to Jakarta. That's it. We were tired. We were upset. We were worried. Jakarta, again? Monday, again? But there was something else in store, at least for me. Campione Del Monde!!! I headed straight from the airport to a sports bar and saw the soccer World Cup finals. And whoa! What a moment it was when Cannavarro lifted the Cup! I was in tears and couldn't stop crying. Had waited for this for God knows how long. '94, didn't happen. '98, didn't happen. Euro 2000 was cruel. 2002 and Euro 2004 were forgettable. But 2006 was the year of The Azurri. It was written. Marcello Lippi lived upto what Sir Alex Fergusson had once said about him, "He's the only man who doesn't need to step on the field to destroy you." Indeed, the world was at his feet that night. And if there's one person every Italian or Italian supporter missed at that moment, it was undoubtedly the legendary Paolo Maldini. This victory was for him. Cheers!!


Campione del Monde
Yousuf